Letters I have answered to particular problems
These items have actually got to be read from the Bottom up, as I always publish my last answer at the top.
you do the under-mention for a Mazda Drifter 2.5 Diesel Turbo with 12, 000 km on
the clock and what do you quote!
current power is standard 80 kW and 257 Nm!
will it be after the upgrade?
Free flow exhaust
Diesel pump calibration & optimization
Can I rate this newspaper!
This is my first one and I am really
**** out of *****
I do not like touching Diesels.
If I make a mistake on a Petrol Engine,
the result is immediate and spectacular, also I am responsible.
On diesels the mistake can be costly in
the long run, overfueling causes ringwash and advancing the timing will retain
to much heat in your engine.
On this Car I would recommend:
K&N filter as the increase in Air
availability can only benefit you.
Larger intercooler 5000 N$ incl
installation. This improves performance while increasing reliability.
A larger exhaust helps a little bit and
for the Calibration and Injector rebuild talk to Erhard
Thanks for the compliment.
Sweet and short…
Do you race the Hyundai? (Or someone else, you
just tune it?) I’ve seen it at your premises more than often and the car
really looks cool and of racing material. My guess is you only use it for
Great newsletter, keep the good work up!
I believe that neither the Team owner or crew chief (myself) should EVER race their car.
It gets far to emotional that way.
Actually I should be the engine builder becoming the chief Whisky pourer at the track, but sadly my job seems to be to hold the can (as they say in the movies).
We have a professional racing for us and I quite like that set-up.
It looks like that car was used by Hyundai Motorsport for Road racing, then converted to Rallying and finally butchered for oval-track use.
If I tell you all the mistakes that have been made on this car, you'd either cry or call me a liar.
So now it only gets used for organised road racing.
I would test it in Namibia, if we still had road-racing.
Thanks for the words of encouragement.
Hi, how much will power increase in flow
onley.Is it worth wile and must you port aswell?
Generally I prefer doing the cam with the head as that makes the most sense.
Gasflowing is another name for Porting.
or rather Gasflowing means testing the
CFM of Air flowing through the head at a given valve lift before & after
porting (similar to Dynotuning and also a good way to baffle the customer)
have a 1995 Mercedes
car is very much standard, but is a bit expensive of fuel consumption giving me
I reach a steep hill it is very lazy. I also experienced a problem with the
temp. gauge as it sometimes move
normal to high and once I drive a long stretch it started to normalize.
use to drive gravel roads once every 3-4 months.
also has a button near the gears where you could shift it from E to S.
I put it in S all I experience is more pertrol consumption. I think it is having a sports suspension.
I also do a dynotest on my car. If
it is a very hot day in town driving my car sometimes became a nightmare cause
it operates so slow. I think a can
do with a bit more torque. Last
weekend I clocked it 210 km/h and there is still powerunder my feet but have
realized that my tempt.gauge moved up a little bit.
could be wrong? Is it wiring harness or air intake or what?
NB! You have a lovely site. Just upload more photos of
parts and cars that you have tuned.
Thankfully I do not do fault finding.
Seriously, you have some problem that an
Expert should look at. I would suggest either Orion or Eros.
Tell them I referred you.
When I Dynotune a Vehicle, I expect it to
be in a "factory state" and then improve on that.
Fault finding takes time and sometimes
specialised equipment. Both I do not have, as I I have a lot of people wanting
their fuel consumption reduced and the 2'nd I find unnecessary for a "speed
The 320 AT should be sporty vehicle, so I
am sure it needs some factory adjustment.
Once it is back to normal we can do a few
things to it such as a K&N, Exhaust, UNICHIP etc.
Has your vehicle always done that or did
you buy a lemon ?
If you don't come right, talk to me
Thanks for your kind comments
Good Day SirI visited your website the other day and that Chip replacement service you do stuck with me. I was wondering what the costs would be involved, if possible, to do this to my Nissan. This will be for required increased acceleration and top-end power.Do I have to do anything before this to make it possible. I have a stock standard car(model mentioned in subject line) with only free-flow system. No headers yet, had to buy mag-rims and tyres.What do you recommend?RegardsChristo
My name is Shahied,I've got a Nissan Sabre 16Gxi Standard.Can you please tell me how a can tweak up the powerin my car? I can only feel my car is pulling fine when it reaches 4000rpm,seems that its holding back at pull-away.I have also noted if im driving around 160-180km/h,against compression,there's allot of smoke coming from theexhaust,when standing still and reff my car there's no smoke from the exhaust-can you please explain why its doing that?
Hi Mnr Nick
Jammer om te pla
Ek het nou gisteraand i eienaardige vraag van i friend gekry?
Hy reken dat ek moet versigtig wees om my kar se "valves" te brand!
Ek weet niks hiervan nie, is dit miskien moontlik?
Jammer om so iets te vra, maar ek weet nie so baie hieroor nie
now then mate i have a j reg 1.3 ford festa and 1 of the tappets is pritty loose . i just need to know wot to set them at i have feeler gadge can u help me thanks for your time hope u can help me nice 1 chap mark short
Hi Nick,I have 1992 Ford Sierra 3.0 GL, I have recently overhauled the engine. I have done a 40 thou rebore. New pistons, overhauled heads, oil pump, etc. I have added in a cut cam 280 degrees from Richie Jute cams. I am not sure over the engine tune up settings, i.e timing, tappet setting and airfuel ratios. I will be changing the Pierburg carb to a Weber 38(is this suitable) as the Pierburg is troublesome ( i.e it is heavy on gas). I have Cowley branches and a 48mm freeflow exhaust system(what is the biggest diameter to go for torque). This is the blackblock V6 with aluminium tappet covers and I have added a T5 gearbox. Could you also advise how I can extract more power from the engine, all I want is a good takeoff, midrange power and is the cam appropriate.Best Regards
Whats the quotation for stroking the block to 3.3 or
3.4 10 000 subassembly on exchange or 27 000 for a complete engine
fitted incl Headers freeflow etc.
Whats the price on the BL II cam 750
Can we trade in the standard cam
and BLII is your cam
recommend a BL II cam.
It is a
torquey cam but gives wonderful performance.
step up is a 79S, which really sings, but looses all resemblance of torque
unless you stroke your motor to 3.3L and go for a dual Weber intake or EFi.
Total different motors
hydraulic Lifter ?
will the vehicle be used for- racing ?
Is it a
3L or 2.3 ? Totally different Motors !
Will the 300 degree work on a standard 3 litre engine
with only the tops gasflowed and ported
Do I need a lower degree grind and what would the cost
It`s a 2.3 Ford Sierra
Cylinders and what car/Engine ?
we would suggest a Billet cam for such a radical/full race grind.
Subject: What would it cost to cut a camshaft at a 300 degree angle
book timeously in December as everybody waits until the last moment to have
their work done.
I was in
Joburg at the time.
should be up & running first week in September.
if yours is the first vehicle we are making a reasonable change to then the Dyno
run is free of charge.
for this info. I'll definitely try
and make to your shop before December when the next Drags will be held.
the country the last time when they held the drags in Swakop.
Heard it was very successful.
have a Dyno? Will you charge me
double if I decide to make a before and after Dyno run? Just so i can see if it
really worth the cash.
are more expensive.
believe we are better performance wise. Only a back to back Dyno run can
headers are made to my spec's.
409 Tubing and Silencers, are also first rate- noise reduction &
went yesterday to these guys from Supaquick.
Just for interest sake got a
on a BroSpeed Exhaust System and they
N$3750.00 fitted. Complete
Stainless Steel. What is the
brand and what brand name do you fit?
would be 500 Extra and have no stock.
this Stainless Steel?
will charge a maximum of 3000 fitted.
piping with HD galvanised Boxes.
Ok. I've got the
K&N on already. So now to do
the Exhaust. Who would
best at this? Should I come to Windhoek
this, or do you know of some-one around here?
do the K&N
head & cams
bought myself this beauty of a car now. It's
a Nissan Sentra Sabre
16V DOHC. I want to look at doing
later on the exhaust system. Is
this a wise desicion and how do I
changing/modifying/whatever you do to the
cams. I am in
installed as you said, and it’s working very well. Thanks for the quick
grind down this pin until flush with top plate, then module plate fits flush.
Have had one of these before.
Subject: Ignition petrol landrover
have a LU-143B from you, and that does not fit. I simply can not align the
hole(s) for the screws and at the same time fit the small metal pin (sticking
upward from the distr.) anywhere.
Head flowing, Header freeflow, K&N,
Cam, Labour for removal & stripping + Gaskets etc.
This is a maximum price, as I cannot
quote on unforeseen problems.
would advise you to do it in stages:
K&N Air Filter 400
to 450 for the OEM replacement unit
Header freeflow 3000
Head Porting (maybe an Engine rebuild at
this stage with an 1845 kit). And now my labour plus Gaskets
enter the game., as an additional fee.
Camshaft + Unichip 4000 to 4500
The problem being that your head SHOULD
have a Hydraulic cam in it, which has to little meat for regrinding.
There will be companies that say they
can do it.
Firstly I thought they knew something I
did not. And then I realised they understood the art of convincing a
Yes, I could also regrind your cam
somewhat. But you will not be happy.
My Business is to create a product that
satisfies the customer, not in selling him as much as possible.
This might explain my approach (as I put
myself into the Customer shoes a few years down the line).
I hope this might clear up my approach,
which does differ from the norm.
for your quote, but what does your complete conversion consist of for 9000.00?
What are you doing then? What if I do this in stages? I don’t want to go and
ask for credit again since the old lady is paid of now. Lastly the cam, is my
current std one not good for trade in? What do I know about the old G solid?
Thanks for coming back to me by eMail.
How did you pick up my site ?
We have been in the business since 93,
advertised with 10's of thousands of
Nick, I am
glad to see our own Namibian tuning web site. I am sick and tired to run to
quote me individually on the following service and parts;
Individual quotes reflect the actual
work and no removal & refitting except where noted.
Ah, yes. Everything includes VAT, so
there should be no rude surprises.
a 1996 VW Jetta 3, 1800 fuel injection.
Cylinder head gas flowing 1750 incl
recon, excl. parts such as guides (N$ 8 ea.)
Big Valve conversion 205.52
for 4 In valves, will fit for free with 1. Your Engine should already have the
Big valves fitted std. To go to even bigger ones makes no sense !
Billet racing camshaft- what grade do you prefer for Namibian altitude? Any
We recommend a 272 grind for street
use, @ 2000 outright. If you give me an old G solid grind it will be 650.
Branches and f/flow exhaust fitted. - What diameter and branch system do you
3000 fitted using headers on a
2.25"pipe. we can do bigger/smaller tubing but do not recommend this.
Injector cleaning and calibrating (travelled 268 000km) Is
it done in
I could have this done in Joburg.
Sadly the guru (Theo a friend of mine) on this was killed in a Hijacking
I am still
researching some alternatives.
Can my block remain standard
with above- mentioned upgrading done and will I notice an increase in power/
torque and a decrease in fuel? I am not a racer; I JUST NEED PERFECT POWER for
in town and open road driving.
You will gain about 30 % power if you
fit a Unichip as well (2 to 2500 N$ as of September), fuel consumption will
definitely be reduced as your engine efficiency is improved. Remember that if
you now "use" your new found power, that the Fuel consumption will not
Please do fit a
K&N filter to take advantage of the
above mods. Reliability will remain std and actually improve if you drive your
car more on the new found torque.
Life on a 1800 motor is about 300 000
km, so you could always wait a bit longer until your Engine is tired and then go
for a 1845 kit with the rebuild (this will really pick up power to the 2L
How long will it take to complete work on the cylinder head? Dyno tune results?
A complete conversion excluding
Unichip takes 1 week and costs 9000 N$.
As of September we have the Dyno to
do theUnichip !
If you are in a hurry and want to do
it now, I suggest doing all except the Camshaft as you do not change the Engines
characteristics sufficiently to warrant a Dyno tune. With cam you do !
I hope to have given you sufficient
input to make a qualified decision.
You are welcome to call or eMail
me with further questions (as they are well put).
Camil front set in stock ex SA.
Rear monroe or Bilstein (Quality)
Pricing remains the same.
It's not the Frontier station wagon, it's the Frontier Double Cab Limited Edition. Dies that remove the problem?
Frontier is a problem- making up a 1 off kit costs 3760.50 (4-5 weeks delivery) incl. Brackets the lot for the Front
Bilstein is available now 1811.25 ea (Front & Rear)
Monroe gas 690 ea for the rear, if the Bilstein is to expensive.
Does this work for you ?
Wat sal die Camil suspension upgrade kit kos vir 'n Isuzu 2.6 4x4 Double Cab (1997 Frontier Limited Edition). Ek soek asb die pryse vir voor en agter asook die pryse vir installasie en hoe lank dit neem om in die hande te kry.
Branch Freeflow will be 2450 Fitted
K&N- do you want a open Pancake type 574.69 - 15 % for cash ?
We also have a Element should your Nissan not have the Donaldson type
> Dear Sir
> Is it possible for you to give me a price on the following.
> Free Float Exhause
> K&N Filer
> and what the cost will be to fit it on a Nissan 1400.
> Thank you.
Wohl wahnsinnig ?
Ich habe aber in Prosperita 950 m2 frei.
Doll neh ?
Leider unbebaut, also wenn der Bau anfaengt, koenten wir es gerne dorthin stellen.
Den Schimmer kan man sich durch einschlaegige literatur aneignen !!
Ich will auch was geiles.
Weis von Nix.
Erzaehl mehr ? Darfst du auch samstag Nacht vor versammelter Gesellschaft.
Soll ich ein Mikrofon bereitstellen ?
Thanks for our comments.
Let me know what glitches, please, so I can fix them ?
We will only do a Unichip towards the end of the Year.
You will have to have it fitted in Jo-burg (I can set it up for you).Do NOT fit a pre-programmed unit here, it does not work and could cost you a Engine.
K&N makes the best Filter, 33-2649 at 406.73, less 15 % for cash.
Filter and Exhaust system (N$ 2450), do not affect the warranty, unless VW supplies these FOC.
Great Site.... Like The Honesty.... A Bit Of glitches... but Rome Wasn't build in a day....
Ok ... im looking for a uni-racing chip for my 1800 dead standard VW polo classic.... aswell as a racing filter...
What filter do you recommend...
Sorry to ask you,, but if I put in those goodies.. how will it affect my guaranty on my car... it only has 15600km on the clock.
Have you checked out www.nicksracing.com
Yes I can help.
> I've heard some good things about you guys, so I want to ask a few
> and want more info about products & prices.
> Firstly, I have a '95 Nissan Sentra 1.6 Twincam ( not feul-injected ). Can
> you fit a K&N Performance filter on this car ? What would it cost ?
> Secondly, what can I do to make the car a bit faster and the performance
> better, coz it's still standard as it is. Can you guys fit stuff like
> plugs and/or anything else that you think would make a difference ? If you
> can, would you please name it and what it will cost me ? Is there any
> disadvantage to fitting things like racing plugs and so on ?
> Thirdly, do you know of anybody that sell & fit stuff like bootspoilers
> so on ? And also, do you know of any good panelbeaters & spraypainters
> won't cost me an arm and a leg ?
> I hope you can be of assistance and your time is greatly appreciated.
> get back to me as soon as possible.
Due to the extreme heat in Namibia, we do not favour Turbo Conversions.
Thermal stress to all components !
Towards the beginning of 2003, we will start offering Supercharger
conversion competitively priced with Turbo conversions.
The VTEC engine is Notorious for its lack of Torque at low RPM.
Forced Induction will only increase Power overall. The Low compression
Pistons will drop low RPM torque even More !
You can also go for the small valve pre-VTEC head, to boost low RPM power
for a distinct loss at High RPM !
We can do our Normal Modifications which increase Power right through the
Range (20 to 30 %).
Prices run from 2450 for a Header- Exhaust system to 10 000 N$ for a
Hope I have helped.
> Drive Magazine had an article on a conversion done by Alpine Development
> the Honda Ballade VTEC.
> Specs are as follows:
> * Standard version: 118kw; 167Nm.
> * Alpine Development: 157kW; 250Nm. (only mods are lowering the
> compression, freeflow exhaust and a type Mitsubishi turbo)
> 0.6bar of boost if I am not mistaken.
> Cost: +_ZAR18,000.
> I have a 1997 Honda Ballade VTEC. The warranty has expired already, so I
> fiddle around to get the torque available
> between 3,500 5000/rpm as the standard version only comes alive above
> Can you do this and at what cost?
From what you told me, I guess whoever replaced/ repaired your injectors
made a Booboo then.
To quote you on a rebuild, as this appears to be a retrofit, I would need a
turbo part number in order to quote you.
Or is this a Grey import ?
Thanks for reply.
My Crusier has 148,000 km. About 25,000km ago I had the injectors
replaced and thereafter I experienced the drop in power, which to me is
When I feel the axle of the turbo, it is loose, therefore I suspect that
it is not efficient anymore.
I advise you to contact Eddie Merker (217 297) to check your Diesel pump
Injectors, especially if you put a lot of Mileage on your Vehicle.
I can recondition your Turbo. A must if your Vehicle has over 100 000
Km's on it. Do that first before doing your pump.
You can measure the Power Output at Diesel Electric (Mr Haehner) after
You are welcome to phone me Mondays to Thursdays under 081-124 0375 or
A K&N Airfilter will definitely Boost stock Power. Especially if the vehicle smokes a Bit.
Hi, when looking up you telephone number I came across your e-mail.
I have a 1994/1995 Landcruiser VX Turbo Diesel and its performance is
degrading slowly. I suspect that the Turbo is not efficient anymore. I
was told to talk to you, because you are perhaps in the position to
asisst in analysing the performance of the turbo and to advise on what
to do. I would appreciate it if you would contact me on my cellphone
0811241900 when you have time and then we can arrange to perhaps look at
Await your call
You will be surprised at how often this happens.
Here is something you may add to your Garage
On Thursday 21 March 2002 I again checked the carburettor float level
and a visual inspection of the carburettor linkages and here and there
the linkages for 100% correct operation.
Suddenly I saw a drop of fuel falling from the NEW petrol pump bottom area.
I immediatly did a closer inspection and yes the NEW petrol pump leaks fuel.
So at idle speed and up to about 2,500 rpm the pump deliveres enough fuel,
But as the rpm and demand for fuel increases the pump loses to much
cannot supply the demand by the engine and the engine starts to complain.
So I replaced the old pump and did a road test, I easily got up to
6,500 rpm with no hesitation and the engine runs as smooth as new.
If ignition runs to max rpm when stationery, but breaks when driving under
load, then its not a Ignitor problem!!
Suggest replacing coil if it has not been replaced, with a 1.8 MF or 1.5MF
resistor. It could also be that you have changed to a 12V (3 to 4 ohms
coil and are still using resistor (total resistance say 4.5 to 6 ohms), and
this will not make enough spark at all.
I have all parts in stock.
Plug wires OK ?- also ex stock.
Ignitor should have an indefinite Service life, if not abused.
You are welcome to ask questions.
> Dear Nicks Racing,
> I know very well you are a busy man but please bear with me.....
> Please allow me a few questions concerning the Ignitor that I installed
> more than 3 years ago in a Mazda 2.6 Drifter 4x4.
> What is your experience concerning these ignition systems ie.
> What signs become visible when this item starts to reach the end of its
> service life.
> My Drifter when under power, up hill or down hill or on a level road now
> lately, the engine cuts out
> at excatly 3,500 rpm, now matter what gear ( 1st up to 5th). I have not
> tried reverse up to date?.
> When stationary the engine revs as high as I want it to go. Only under
> and on the road I experience this cut-out. During this cut-out the engine
> obviously loses power and backfires erraticly.
> Plug and plug wires were replaced.
> Distr. cap and rotor were replaced.
> Air and fuel filter renewed.
> Needle and seat renewed.
> Float level tripple checked against manufacturer measurements.
> I'm at a stage now where I reached the end of trying anything else and
> to reach out to others for assistance.
> Thanks for your time
> Keep up the good work !!!
Just been reading your website. More specifically, the project vehicle
thing which contains seriously good advice. I use a sauce recipe that
works with whatever and all the component parts are long-lasting without
refrigeration so that you don't have to drink warm beer just to have the
luxury of a decent sauce. It looks like this:
1 Onion, finely chopped
1 Tablespoon of tomato sauce or tomato paste
1 Tablespoon of vinegar or lemon juice ( I prefer the juice)
3 Tablespoons of peanut butter (Yep, that's right)
1 Tablespoon of curry powder or your favourite masala mixture.
1 Chicken, beef or mutton stock cube in 350ml of hot water.
Just moer it all together in a pot or pan over low heat after frying the
onions for a short while. Be prepared to stir it because the peanut butter
makes it go thick and creamy and then it tends to burn a bit at the bottom.
Works great with droewors (where's that bloody deelteken when you need it!)
cut into bits or mince or chicken or chipolata sausages or whatever. Great
The reason for the recipe is a small token of gratitude for the help I got
by telephone from you after I decided to install the Ignitor I bought from
you. The installation on the 2600 Drifter was a hell of a lot simpler
doing it your way than to try and hang into the engine bay like a geelvink
while installing the bits and pieces. Thanks once again.
I have a few more recipes but as my family are largely vegetarian ( in
Namibia, of all places!) I'm not sure how it will go down. Try this one
and let me know if it turned out worth the while.
The following is a Question and answer session between me and a potential customer, by eMail. I suggest you start at the Bottom.
You have asked me for advice on how to give your Engine more Power without
loosing any anywhere in the RPM band.
I advised you to have the Heads ported.
Valve springs keep the Valves on the Seat, they only affect Power when they
are too Stiff (Kinetic Energy) or too weak (Valves will not seat- and leak).
Yes I am aware of this. Since the exhaust valves burnt and could of
resulted from week valve springs I need to check on this before I
If you wish to search for answers I am not giving you (either by our
conversation or on the Website- there are plenty more articles now), may I
suggest you start reading some good technical Books. Thanks, I am looking
into this and am learning every day.
Rocker Ratio's can increase lift and off seat duration, but will put more
stress on your springs Lifters and Lobes. Well aware of this, hence need to
look at the right combination.
Roller rockers- High RPM (such as 4000 +) seriously not on a Boat that
cannot get over 5000 RPM ? I was not aware of this but thought that the
motor will run smoother.
No Red Line means it can take that Safely. I am aware of this, but surely
putting springs in that can take 5000 rpm does not mean the motor will
suddenly run this, many other factors will still limit the rpm.
My Advice will remain: PORT YOUR HEADS ! Yes I am still keeping this in mind,
what concerns me is that the effect could only be limited due to the exhaust
system that we discussed before is made for a safe use and not for free flow
> Hi Nick, sorry I will make it to you today. I should make it tomorrow. I
> would like to took at valve springs, Rocker Arm kits normal and roller
> (change the ratio) as well as push rods when I pop in. This could be
> another way of increasing valve lift without changing the cam. Putting
> springs in that can take 5800 rpm surely does not mean the motor will rev
> that? I am having the present springs tested to see what their pressure
> rating is and what the rocker ratio is. Andre
> I have springs for you that can take 5800 Rpm Redline.
> If the rest of your engine can take that, you must decide.
> All of our SBC's are redlined at 5800 minimum.
> I also have springs that can take 8000 Rpm- though your cam & Lifters will
> not last there.
>> Message -----
> > If I change the springs on my motor, can I get 200 rpm more? Thanks Andre
> > No
> > They are a band aid.
> > ONLY springs can increase RPM.
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > > Nick, can spring shims increase rpm and if so can they increase rpm?
> > Andre
Received 31/08/2001 from Kati:
Regarding the Brotrezept
Dear Mr. Oxley
Thank you for your letter. Judging by the amount of mail that I have received, Fuel percolation and similar problems seem to be the least understood. Simply said Fuel Boils at around 60 C and underhood Temperatures are nearly Always higher, so it can’t really be prevented.
First thing to check would be to utilise a "Jump-start from another car" when starting hot, if your problem is solved have your electrical system checked.
Second Test would be to drive your car for a short while with the tank cap removed (please take the Fire hazard into account), if your hot start problem is cured have your tank vent checked.
Then check your fuel pressure at the carb inlet, max. is 6 PSI and ideal is 3-5 PSI.
Also try driving shortly with your aircleaner top removed from the carb, be wary of dirt and fire though, and see if that makes a difference.
Finally have your float set at factory specs, as Volkswagen does not like to have its Carbs played with.
And finally if it was my Vehicle I would have a Weber installed on it PROFESSIONALLY if the above gave no results
Remember that on the Jetta your carb sits behind the Motor and above the Exhaust manifold, which is a Hot spot to be in ! A lot of Volkswagen have a slight hot starting problem due to this fact alone.
Thank you very much for your letter dated 16/04/96.
Firstly, why do you want to use a Big Block, unless of course you intend Towing ?
I would just ensure a few things, get something equal to the Towing package from GM. More Information on what the vehicle is going to be used for, would be appreciated, i.e. Towing, serious Off roading ? Since there are probably a few minor thing that you don’t think of, that could become major here.
You do need a extra external tranny cooler if your vehicle is Automatic.
If the radiator has plastic tanks, get one with a higher BTU rating made from copper, since that can be repaired in Africa.
If you are not towing, maybe you should consider a performance suspension from Superlift with Doetsch Tech MV12 shocks.
Otherwise you should have no problems with a Blazer.
Jeeps Cherokees get assembled in South Africa and you might experience service problems elsewhere. Also the plastic radiator tanks tend to split loose from the radiator and cannot be repaired. Don’t forget that our dirt roads can be extremely choppy, testing mounting points to its fullest.
Pertaining to our conversation of a few Days ago.
2.2 Courier 12 valve Fuel consumption problem. You quoted an approximate 5Km/L which we can improve to an easy 7.5 Km/L using Fuelinjection or a cheaper alternative which will improve performance as well by 20% is to modify your motor by fitting:
a Header freeflow system
Head and Intake Porting
Weber Carburetor with K&N Filter
This would price at 7000 N$ and get you a 1 year/50 000Km warranty on our Workmanship.
May I provide a quick calculation here.
35 000 Km a year means 7000 Liter’s used @ N$2.00 = 14 000 N$ spent on fuel. Then we modify your vehicle and get the following: 4666.67 Liters used = 9333.34 N$ spent giving a saving of 4666.66 N$.
Effectively before you are Halfway through your Lease contract, you will start saving on Fuel.
With one of these Vehicles modified and traveling at a Legal speed, a Customer was able to obtain better Mileage’s than 10 Km/L.
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