Letters I have answered to particular problems

These items have actually got to be read from the Bottom up, as I always publish my last answer at the top.

Hi Nick

Could you do the under-mention for a Mazda Drifter 2.5 Diesel Turbo with 12, 000 km on the clock and what do you quote!

The current power is standard 80 kW and 257 Nm!

What will it be after the upgrade?


1. Free flow exhaust                                 

2. Diesel pump calibration & optimization 


Can I rate this newspaper!

This is my first one and I am really impressed!

**** out of *****


I do not like touching Diesels.

If I make a mistake on a Petrol Engine, the result is immediate and spectacular, also I am responsible.

On diesels the mistake can be costly in the long run, overfueling causes ringwash and advancing the timing will retain to much heat in your engine.


On this Car I would recommend:

K&N filter as the increase in Air availability can only benefit you.

Larger intercooler 5000 N$ incl installation. This improves performance while increasing reliability.


A larger exhaust helps a little bit and for the Calibration and Injector rebuild talk to Erhard 061-217297


Thanks for the compliment.


                                    *                                  *                                  *

Sweet and short…


Do you race the Hyundai? (Or someone else, you just tune it?) I’ve seen it at your premises more than often and the car really looks cool and of racing material. My guess is you only use it for rally…?


Great newsletter, keep the good work up!



I believe that neither the Team owner or crew chief (myself) should EVER race their car.

It gets far to emotional that way.

Actually I should be the engine builder becoming the chief Whisky pourer at the track, but sadly my job seems to be to hold the can (as they say in the movies).

We have a professional racing for us and I quite like that set-up.


It looks like that car was used by Hyundai Motorsport for Road racing, then converted to Rallying and finally butchered for oval-track use.

If I tell you all the mistakes that have been made on this car, you'd either cry or call me a liar.

So now it only gets used for organised road racing.

I would test it in Namibia, if we still had road-racing.


Thanks for the words of encouragement.


                                    *                                  *                                  *


Hi, how much will power increase in flow onley.Is it worth wile and must you port aswell?
Generally I prefer doing the cam with the head as that makes the most sense.


Gasflowing is another name for Porting.

or rather Gasflowing means testing the CFM of Air flowing through the head at a given valve lift before & after porting (similar to Dynotuning and also a good way to baffle the customer)


*                                  *                                  *

Hi Nick

I have a 1995 Mercedes Ben z E320 A/T.

The car is very much standard, but is a bit expensive of fuel consumption giving me 5.8 KM/L.

If I reach a steep hill it is very lazy. I also experienced a problem with the temp. gauge as it sometimes move

from normal to high and once I drive a long stretch it started to normalize.

I use to drive gravel roads once every 3-4 months.

It also has a button near the gears where you could shift it from E to S.

If I put it in S all I experience is more pertrol consumption.  I think it is having a sports suspension.

Can I also do a dynotest on my car.  If it is a very hot day in town driving my car sometimes became a nightmare cause it operates so slow.  I think a can do with a bit more torque.  Last weekend I clocked it 210 km/h and there is still powerunder my feet but have realized that my tempt.gauge moved up a little bit.

What could be wrong? Is it wiring harness or air intake or what?




NB! You have a lovely site. Just upload more photos of parts and cars that you have tuned.

Dear Herbert


Thankfully I do not do fault finding.

Seriously, you have some problem that an Expert should look at. I would suggest either Orion or Eros.    Tell them I referred you.


When I Dynotune a Vehicle, I expect it to be in a "factory state" and then improve on that.

Fault finding takes time and sometimes specialised equipment. Both I do not have, as I I have a lot of people wanting their fuel consumption reduced and the 2'nd I find unnecessary for a "speed shop".


The 320 AT should be sporty vehicle, so I am sure it needs some factory adjustment.

Once it is back to normal we can do a few things to it such as a K&N, Exhaust, UNICHIP etc.


Has your vehicle always done that or did you buy a lemon ?


If you don't come right, talk to me


Thanks for your kind comments

Dear Christo
We fit the UNICHIP. This is not a chip replacement, but a ECU that enables the tuner (in this case myself) to set up the fuelling and timing values of a specific vehicle throughout the RPM range.
I can also control the Turbo etc with that and improve idling on a "hot" cam, as well as remove/alter road speed governors etc.
Cost for the UNICHIP + fitting and tuning is 2000 to 2500 depending on the complexity of the system.
I can guarantee an increase in power with a decrease in fuel consumption (the latter is most noticed at high speed).
If you are unsatisfied and notify me within 3 months of fitting, you can have your money back.
Though since we set up your car perfectly with the UNICHIP, we might have to retune it (750 to 1000), once you do more significant modifications.
As it states on my Website, I recommend the following sequence:
Head & Cam + retune of chip
    if you wish to do this in stages.
Good Day Sir
I visited your website the other day and that Chip replacement service you do stuck with me.  I was wondering what the costs would be involved, if possible, to do this to my Nissan.  This will be for required increased acceleration and top-end power. 
Do I have to do anything before this to make it possible.  I have a stock standard car(model mentioned in subject line) with only free-flow system.  No headers yet, had to buy mag-rims and tyres.
What do you recommend?



Dear Shahid
How much are you willing to spend ?
My website should give you some suggestions.
The Sti was known to do that, we have Branches + Freeflow that do improve smoothness.
I guess your valve stem seals are shot. can be fixed without removing the head.
My name is Shahied,I've got a Nissan Sabre 16Gxi Standard.Can you please tell me how a can tweak up the power
in my car? I can only feel my car is pulling fine when it reaches 4000rpm,seems that its holding back at pull-away.I have also noted if im driving around 160-180km/h,against compression,there's allot of smoke coming from the 
exhaust,when standing still and reff my car there's no smoke from the exhaust-can you please explain why its doing that?
Our proprietary Pipe & freeflow do mellow out the power without loosing any (i.e. gain in Torque).
The stock Sti type motor only comes on the cam at 4000 RPM which makes the car feel strong.
Has your husband dyno'd the car before & after these changes ?
Hope that helps

My husband has put Cowley branches on his Nissan Sentra 1600 GXI Jap. Import motor.  He motor was dyno’d and was pulling like crazy with the standard Nissan exhaust system.  Problem is since they put he branches on the car has lost a lot of power and feels like there is more torque.  He has spoken to Cowley in JHB and they suggested that he change the pipe diameter (think it’s 48mm at the moment).

Any suggestions???


What burns valves ?
Excessive heat !
i.e. When your exhaust valve stays open to long and there is a jet of burning gasses passing it.
This can also be caused by a Megaphone exhaust per cylinder sucking a overly rich mixture out past the exhaust valve
Lean Mixtures push combustion chambers up also.
After time most valves tend to thin as their material is burned away.
Some engines, such as the Toyota 3 F are more prone to this.
Believing that a tuned header exhaust will burn valves is about as scientific as wearing Garlic around your neck at full moon.



Hi Mnr Nick


Jammer om te pla


Ek het nou gisteraand i eienaardige vraag van i friend gekry?


Hy reken dat ek moet versigtig wees om my kar se "valves" te brand!


Ek weet niks hiervan nie, is dit miskien moontlik?


Jammer om so iets te vra, maar ek weet nie so baie hieroor nie




I suggest you contact Ford !
now then mate i have a j reg 1.3 ford festa and 1 of the tappets is pritty loose . i just need to know wot to set them at i have feeler gadge can u help me  thanks for your time hope u can help me nice 1 chap mark short


Dear Dion
You have fallen into the trap of building something and then asking whether it will work.
So what advice can I give you ?    Sell the Motor and start afresh with my ideas or hope that your system will work.
Ritchie should be able to give you the settings that will work with your cam.
But then you have added a Cowley header. They should tell you what diameter piping works best with that particular header.
I prefer the Weber over the Pierburg, simply because I have all the necessary parts to set one up.
But I don't know whether the Weber factory will ever reopen ??
If I would do the job, I would go for a 3.3 Ford as per my website.
300 Nm @ 2800 instead of 200 @ 3800 sounds good ?
Every Engine builder has a magic set-up that works for him.
This is achieved over countless hours of trial and error.
Costly both in time and money.
Therefore every engine builder sticks with the recipe that will work for him or her.
What you have done, I have never tried, therefore I cannot give you an honest answer.
I hope not to have offended you, but these are the bare facts.
Kindest regards

Hi Nick,
I have 1992 Ford Sierra 3.0 GL, I have recently overhauled the engine. I have done a 40 thou rebore. New pistons, overhauled heads, oil pump, etc. I have added in a cut cam 280 degrees from Richie Jute cams. I am not sure over the engine tune up settings, i.e timing, tappet setting and airfuel ratios. I will be changing the Pierburg carb to a Weber 38(is this suitable) as the Pierburg is troublesome ( i.e it is heavy on gas). I have Cowley branches and a 48mm freeflow exhaust system(what is the biggest diameter to go for torque). This is the blackblock V6 with aluminium tappet covers and I have added a T5 gearbox. Could you also advise how I can extract more power from the engine, all I want is a good takeoff, midrange power and is the cam appropriate.
Best Regards



Whats the quotation for stroking the block to 3.3 or 3.4  10 000 subassembly on exchange or 27 000 for a complete engine fitted incl Headers freeflow etc. 

Whats the price on the BL II cam  750 Exchange 

Can we trade in the standard cam


5 speed- and BLII is your cam


XR6 sedan


I would recommend a BL II cam.

It is a torquey cam but gives wonderful performance.


The next step up is a 79S, which really sings, but looses all resemblance of torque unless you stroke your motor to 3.3L and go for a dual Weber intake or EFi.


In what vehicle ?


Solid lifters

Street performances

Total different motors


Solid or hydraulic Lifter ?

What will the vehicle be used for- racing ?

Is it a 3L or 2.3 ? Totally different Motors !


Will the 300 degree work on a standard 3 litre engine with only the tops gasflowed and ported

Do I need a lower degree grind and what would the cost be


700 Regrind


It`s a 2.3 Ford Sierra



How many Cylinders and what car/Engine ? 

Normally we would suggest a Billet cam for such a radical/full race grind.

What would it cost to cut a camshaft at a 300 degree angle



I would book timeously in December as everybody waits until the last moment to have their work done.

I was in Joburg at the time.


My Dyno should be up & running first week in September.

Deal is; if yours is the first vehicle we are making a reasonable change to then the Dyno run is free of charge.


Thanks for this info.  I'll definitely try and make to your shop before December when the next Drags will be held.  I was

out of the country the last time when they held the drags in Swakop.  Heard it was very successful.


Do you have a Dyno?  Will you charge me double if I decide to make a before and after Dyno run? Just so i can see if it

was really worth the cash.


Thanks again



 They are more expensive.

 I believe we are better performance wise. Only a back to back Dyno run can

 prove this though.

 My headers are made to my spec's.

 The 409 Tubing and Silencers, are also first rate- noise reduction &



  I went yesterday to these guys from Supaquick.  Just for interest sake got a

 quote on a BroSpeed Exhaust System and they

 quoted N$3750.00 fitted.  Complete Stainless Steel.  What is the quality of

 this brand and what brand name do you fit?


  No, would be 500 Extra and have no stock.


    Is this Stainless Steel?


    I will charge a maximum of 3000 fitted.

   2mm piping with HD galvanised Boxes.


      Ok.  I've got the K&N on already.  So now to do the Exhaust.  Who would


   the best at this?  Should I come to Windhoek

   for this, or do you know of some-one around here?


       Firstly do the K&N

    Then Exhaust

    Then Unichip

    Then head & cams


        I bought myself this beauty of a car now.  It's a Nissan Sentra Sabre


    1.6i 16V DOHC.  I want to look at doing the cams

    and later on the exhaust system.  Is this a wise desicion and how do I


    to changing/modifying/whatever you do to the

    cams.  I am in Walvis bay.







Everything installed as you said, and it’s working very well. Thanks for the quick support.




You grind down this pin until flush with top plate, then module plate fits flush. Have had one of these before.

Subject: Ignition petrol landrover


We now have a LU-143B from you, and that does not fit. I simply can not align the hole(s) for the screws and at the same time fit the small metal pin (sticking upward from the distr.) anywhere.


Head flowing, Header freeflow, K&N, Cam, Labour for removal & stripping + Gaskets etc.

This is a maximum price, as I cannot quote on unforeseen problems.

 I would advise you to do it in stages:

K&N Air Filter    400 to 450 for the OEM replacement unit

Header freeflow    3000

Head Porting (maybe an Engine rebuild at this stage with an 1845 kit).    And now my labour plus Gaskets enter the game., as an additional fee.

Camshaft + Unichip 4000 to 4500


The problem being that your head SHOULD have a Hydraulic cam in it, which has to little meat for regrinding.

There will be companies that say they can do it.

Firstly I thought they knew something I did not. And then I realised they understood the art of convincing a Customer.

Yes, I could also regrind your cam somewhat. But you will not be happy.


My Business is to create a product that satisfies the customer, not in selling him as much as possible.

This might explain my approach (as I put myself into the Customer shoes a few years down the line).


I hope this might clear up my approach, which does differ from the norm.


Thanks for your quote, but what does your complete conversion consist of for 9000.00? What are you doing then? What if I do this in stages? I don’t want to go and ask for credit again since the old lady is paid of now. Lastly the cam, is my current std one not good for trade in? What do I know about the old G solid?






Dear Ivan


Thanks for coming back to me by eMail.

How did you pick up my site ?

We have been in the business since 93, advertised with 10's of thousands of Rands and still have not been noticed properly.


Nick, I am glad to see our own Namibian tuning web site. I am sick and tired to run to South Africa for everything that I need. Wish you all the best. We will contribute to your site.

Please quote me individually on the following service and parts; 

Individual quotes reflect the actual work and no removal & refitting except where noted.

Ah, yes. Everything includes VAT, so there should be no rude surprises. 


I drive a 1996 VW Jetta 3, 1800 fuel injection.

1. Cylinder head gas flowing     1750 incl recon, excl. parts such as guides (N$ 8 ea.)


2. Big Valve conversion      205.52 for 4 In valves, will fit for free with 1. Your Engine should already have the Big valves fitted std. To go to even bigger ones makes no sense !


3. Billet racing camshaft- what grade do you prefer for Namibian altitude? Any exchange discounts? 

We recommend a 272 grind for street use, @ 2000 outright. If you give me an old G solid grind it will be 650. 


4. Branches and f/flow exhaust fitted. - What diameter and branch system do you use? 

3000 fitted using headers on a 2.25"pipe. we can do bigger/smaller tubing but do not recommend this.


5. Injector cleaning and calibrating (travelled 268 000km) Is it done in Namibia ? 

I could have this done in Joburg. Sadly the guru (Theo a friend of mine) on this was killed in a Hijacking last year. 

I am still researching some alternatives.


6. Can my block remain standard with above- mentioned upgrading done and will I notice an increase in power/ torque and a decrease in fuel? I am not a racer; I JUST NEED PERFECT POWER for in town and open road driving. 

You will gain about 30 % power if you fit a Unichip as well (2 to 2500 N$ as of September), fuel consumption will definitely be reduced as your engine efficiency is improved. Remember that if you now "use" your new found power, that the Fuel consumption will not become worse.

Please do fit a K&N filter to take advantage of the above mods. Reliability will remain std and actually improve if you drive your car more on the new found torque.

Life on a 1800 motor is about 300 000 km, so you could always wait a bit longer until your Engine is tired and then go for a 1845 kit with the rebuild (this will really pick up power to the 2L realm).


7. How long will it take to complete work on the cylinder head? Dyno tune results? 

A complete conversion excluding Unichip takes 1 week and costs 9000 N$. 

As of September we have the Dyno to do theUnichip !

If you are in a hurry and want to do it now, I suggest doing all except the Camshaft as you do not change the Engines characteristics sufficiently to warrant a Dyno tune. With cam you do !


Thanks in advance




I hope to have given you sufficient input to make a qualified decision.

You are welcome to call or eMail me with further questions (as they are well put). 






Camil front set in stock ex SA.

Rear monroe or Bilstein (Quality)


Pricing remains the same.




It's not the Frontier station wagon, it's the Frontier Double Cab Limited Edition. Dies that remove the problem?



Frontier is a problem- making up a 1 off kit costs 3760.50 (4-5 weeks delivery) incl. Brackets the lot for the Front

Bilstein is available now    1811.25 ea (Front & Rear)

Monroe gas 690 ea for the rear, if the Bilstein is to expensive.


Does this work for you ?



Wat sal die Camil suspension upgrade kit kos vir 'n Isuzu 2.6 4x4 Double Cab (1997 Frontier Limited Edition). Ek soek asb die pryse vir voor en agter asook die pryse vir installasie en hoe lank dit neem om in die hande te kry.







Branch Freeflow will be 2450 Fitted
K&N- do you want a open Pancake type 574.69 - 15 % for cash ?
We also have a Element should your Nissan not have the Donaldson type


> Dear Sir
> Is it possible for you to give me a price on the following.
> Branches
> Free Float Exhause
> K&N Filer
> and what the cost will be to fit it on a Nissan 1400.
> Thank you.
> Ron


Wohl wahnsinnig ?

Ich habe aber in Prosperita 950 m2 frei.

Doll neh ?

Leider unbebaut, also wenn der Bau anfaengt, koenten wir es gerne dorthin stellen.


Den Schimmer kan man sich durch einschlaegige literatur aneignen !!

Ich will auch was geiles.

Schiff ?

Weis von Nix.

Erzaehl mehr ? Darfst du auch samstag Nacht vor versammelter Gesellschaft.

Soll ich ein Mikrofon bereitstellen ?

Kariokieinlagen- hehe.



Aua aua, 100.000,- Möpse!! Aber ich glaube, das ich trotzdem noch an der ganzen Sache interessiert bin. Leider habe ich keinen blassen Schimmer von Autos und Motoren (man entsinne sich an den Steuerpumpen incident), ich will nur ein geiles Auto. Wie Du vielleicht weisst, werde ich nicht mehr allzu lange in Namibia verweilen und wieder aufs Schiff gehen. Dann kann ich ja das Projekt mit meinen sauer verdienten US Dollars in Angriff nehmen. Könnte der Dodge während der Zeit bei Dir auf Deinem Miniwerkstattgelände stehen?


Tja, hast du schon mal meinen Roten Hot Rod im Hof gesehen ?

 Sowas macht man/ich aus liebe.

Ich wuerde dich (dir ist korreckter aber ich bin momentan am taumeln) raten mit mir sowas lieber unter dem einfluss von Allehol zu besprechen.

Und bestimmt nicht an meinem Geburtstag, da ich die Haenseleien von Urda & co. ueber meinen Nova nicht mehr hoeren kann.


By the way dein Poesvervoer ist doch was Schoenes ?


Die Bilder Hoearhihihohohonjeiiiiiiiin.

Die Cocktails gehen wohl hoch bei euch ?

The imagination and Wallet are yours- gaan mal !

Wenn du andere leute fragst dir zu sehr zu helfen, kriegst du andere leutes Auto und es kostet dich Vieeeeeel.

Motor, getriebe, Auspuff- no Problem.

Reifen, Felgen etc. da kann ich helfen, wenn du die Aufputschmittel parat haelst.

Gebrauchte ? woher und wer garantiert den ?

Willst du nicht in deinem entvirginator nach Cape Town rauschen ?

Meinen Nova wird mich so ueber 100 000 kosten.

Motor 450 PS und 400 Lbs Torque so um die 40 bis 50 boeckchen.

Getriebe 20 000

Reifen Mit Felgen +- 10 000

Panelbeating    10 000

Instrumente mit Enterieur 15 000

Dies sind Chevy teile weil es ein Chevy ist.

Oder willst du etwa den Dodge mit Bowtie teilen vergewaltingen.


Bescheuert- nee bstimmt nicht, wuerde ich nieeeeeeee wagen. Eher ein Enthusiast mit nem Gehoerfehler.

Hot Rods behaelt man oder sucht einen geistesgestoerten Liebhaber- eine stufe weiter wie du.


waas so frueh am morgen im nebel ?



tja, nachdem ich den Dodge nun schon seit Wochen in den Zeitungen und auf diversen Flugblättern zum Verkauf anbiete und sich noch kein Depp gemeldet hat (ausser ein paar unseriöser Mitmenschen), habe ich mir gedacht dass ich ihn eventuell doch behalten könnte und was schönes daraus mache. Du wolltest der Urda doch schon immer mal einen echten Diamantenring schenken und nicht immer die kleinen Ringe aus den Lucky Packets?

 Also, hier ist die Idee. Wenn es sich als machbar und vor allem auch bezahlbar erweist dann könnte man doch einen hotrod aus dem Dodge machen. Es brauch ja nicht unbedingt ein richtiges Rennauto zu werden, aber schon etwas in diese Richtung. Ich habe ein paar Bilder attached, so wie ich mir die Sache in etwa vorstelle. Meine Frage(n) an Dich: Machst Du auch solche Spässchen? Wenn ja, machst Du nur den Motor, oder auch Reifen, rims, Getriebe, Auspuff, etc.? Ist es möglich und ratsam einen gebrauchten Motor zu kaufen? Willst Du überhaupt so etwas machen? Und finally, wenn möglich könntest Du mal irgendwann (no hurry) eine quotation zusammenbasteln wieviel so ein Spass in etwa kosten würde?

Denistiq Body repairs würde das Auto spraypainten, schwarz vorzugsweise.

So, wenn Du dann zu lachen aufgehört hast, kannst Du mir mal irgendwann zurückschreiben und sagen was Du von der ganzen Sache hälst. Oder sag' es mir lieber nicht, denn ich weiss dass Du mich sicher schon für total bescheuert erklärt hast.

Ach ja, noch was. Meinst Du, der Wagen lässt sich als "hotrod" leichter verkaufen und gibt es überhaupt Interessenten?


Mit leicht angenebeltem Gruss,




Hi Leigh


Thanks for our comments.

Let me know what glitches, please, so I can fix them ?


We will only do a Unichip towards the end of the Year.

You will have to have it fitted in Jo-burg (I can set it up for you).Do NOT fit a pre-programmed unit here, it does not work and could cost you a Engine.


K&N makes the best Filter, 33-2649 at 406.73, less 15 % for cash.

Filter and Exhaust system (N$ 2450), do not affect the warranty, unless VW supplies these FOC.




Hi Nick


Great Site.... Like The Honesty.... A Bit Of glitches... but Rome Wasn't build in a day....


Ok ... im looking for a uni-racing chip for my 1800 dead standard VW polo classic.... aswell as a racing filter...

What filter do you recommend...


Sorry to ask you,, but if I put in those goodies.. how will it affect my guaranty on my car... it only has 15600km on the clock.


Have you checked out www.nicksracing.com ?

Yes I can help.

> I've heard some good things about you guys, so I want to ask a few
> and want more info about products & prices.
> Firstly, I have a '95 Nissan Sentra 1.6 Twincam ( not feul-injected ). Can
> you fit a K&N Performance filter on this car ? What would it cost ?
> Secondly, what can I do to make the car a bit faster and the performance
> better, coz it's still standard as it is. Can you guys fit stuff like
> plugs and/or anything else that you think would make a difference ? If you
> can, would you please name it and what it will cost me ? Is there any
> disadvantage to fitting things like racing plugs and so on ?
> Thirdly, do you know of anybody that sell & fit stuff like bootspoilers
> so on ? And also, do you know of any good panelbeaters & spraypainters
> won't cost me an arm and a leg ?
> I hope you can be of assistance and your time is greatly appreciated.
> get back to me as soon as possible.


Due to the extreme heat in Namibia, we do not favour Turbo Conversions.
Thermal stress to all components !
Towards the beginning of 2003, we will start offering Supercharger
conversion competitively priced with Turbo conversions.

The VTEC engine is Notorious for its lack of Torque at low RPM.
Forced Induction will only increase Power overall. The Low compression
Pistons will drop low RPM torque even More !
You can also go for the small valve pre-VTEC head, to boost low RPM power
for a distinct loss at High RPM !

We can do our Normal Modifications which increase Power right through the
Range (20 to 30 %).
Prices run from 2450 for a Header- Exhaust system to 10 000 N$ for a
complete Conversion.

Hope I have helped.

> Drive Magazine had an article on a conversion done by Alpine Development
> the Honda Ballade VTEC.
> Specs are as follows:
> * Standard version: 118kw; 167Nm.
> * Alpine Development: 157kW; 250Nm. (only mods are lowering the
> compression, freeflow exhaust and a type Mitsubishi turbo)
> 0.6bar of boost if I am not mistaken.
> Cost: +_ZAR18,000.
> I have a 1997 Honda Ballade VTEC. The warranty has expired already, so I
> fiddle around to get the torque available
> between 3,500 5000/rpm as the standard version only comes alive above
> 6,400/rpm.
> Can you do this and at what cost?


From what you told me, I guess whoever replaced/ repaired your injectors
made a Booboo then.

To  quote you on a rebuild, as this appears to be a retrofit, I would need a
turbo part number in order to quote you.
Or is this a Grey import ?

Thanks for reply.
My Crusier has 148,000 km. About 25,000km ago I had the injectors
replaced and thereafter I experienced the drop in power, which to me is
When I feel the axle of the turbo, it is loose, therefore I suspect that
it is not efficient anymore.


I advise you to contact Eddie Merker (217 297) to check your Diesel pump
Injectors, especially if you put a lot of Mileage on your Vehicle.

I can recondition your Turbo. A must if your Vehicle has over 100 000
Km's on it. Do that first before doing your pump.

You can measure the Power Output at Diesel Electric (Mr Haehner) after
25'th March.

You are welcome to phone me Mondays to Thursdays under 081-124 0375 or
the Office.

A K&N Airfilter will definitely Boost stock Power. Especially if the vehicle smokes a Bit.


Hi, when looking up you telephone number I came across your e-mail.
I have a 1994/1995 Landcruiser VX Turbo Diesel and its performance is
degrading slowly. I suspect that the Turbo is not efficient anymore. I
was told to talk to you, because you are perhaps in the position to
asisst in analysing the performance of the turbo and to advise on what
to do. I would appreciate it if you would contact me on my cellphone
0811241900 when you have time and then we can arrange to perhaps look at
the problem.
Await your call


You will be surprised at how often this happens.

Here is something you may add to your Garage Casebook.

On Thursday 21 March 2002 I again checked the carburettor float level
and a visual inspection of the carburettor linkages and here and there
the linkages for 100% correct operation.

Suddenly I saw a drop of fuel falling from the NEW petrol pump bottom area.
I immediatly did a closer inspection and yes the NEW petrol pump leaks fuel.

So at idle speed and up to about 2,500 rpm the pump deliveres enough fuel,
But as the rpm and demand for fuel increases the pump loses to much
cannot supply the demand by the engine and the engine starts to complain.

So I replaced the old pump and did a road test, I easily got up to
6,500 rpm with no hesitation and the engine runs as smooth as new.


If ignition runs to max rpm when stationery, but breaks when driving under
load, then its not a Ignitor problem!!

Suggest replacing coil if it has not been replaced, with a 1.8 MF or 1.5MF
resistor. It could also be that you have changed to a 12V (3 to 4 ohms
coil  and are still using resistor (total resistance say 4.5 to 6 ohms), and
this will not make enough spark at all.

I have all parts in stock.

Plug wires OK ?- also ex stock.

Ignitor should have an indefinite Service life, if not abused.

You are welcome to ask questions.


> Dear Nicks Racing,
> I know very well you are a busy man but please bear with me.....
> Please allow me a few questions concerning the Ignitor that I installed
> more than 3 years ago in a Mazda 2.6 Drifter 4x4.
> What is your experience concerning these ignition systems ie.
> What signs become visible when this item starts to reach the end of its
> service life.
> My Drifter when under power, up hill or down hill or on a level road now
> lately,  the engine cuts out
> at excatly 3,500 rpm, now matter what gear ( 1st up to 5th). I have not
> tried reverse up to date?.
> When stationary the engine revs as high as I want it to go. Only under
> and on the road I experience this cut-out. During this cut-out the engine
> obviously loses power and backfires erraticly.
> Plug and plug wires were replaced.
> Distr. cap and rotor were replaced.
> Air and fuel filter renewed.
> Needle and seat renewed.
> Float level tripple checked against manufacturer measurements.
> I'm at a stage now where I reached the end of trying anything else and
> oblidged
> to reach out to others for assistance.
> Thanks for your time
> Keep up the good work !!!




Just been reading your website.  More specifically, the project vehicle
thing which contains seriously good advice.  I use a sauce recipe that
works with whatever and all the component parts are long-lasting without
refrigeration so that you don't have to drink warm beer just to have the
luxury of a decent sauce.  It looks like this:

1 Onion, finely chopped
1 Tablespoon of tomato sauce or tomato paste
1 Tablespoon of vinegar or lemon juice ( I prefer the juice)
3 Tablespoons of peanut butter (Yep, that's right)
1 Tablespoon of curry powder or your favourite masala mixture.
1 Chicken, beef or mutton stock cube in 350ml of hot water.

Just moer it all together in a pot or pan over low heat after frying the
onions for a short while.  Be prepared to stir it because the peanut butter
makes it go thick and creamy and then it tends to burn a bit at the bottom.
Works great with droewors (where's that bloody deelteken when you need it!)
cut into bits or mince or chicken or chipolata sausages or whatever.  Great
pasta sauce!

The reason for the recipe is a small token of gratitude for the help I got
by telephone from you after I decided to install the Ignitor I bought from
you.  The installation on the 2600 Drifter was a hell of a lot simpler
doing it your way than to try and hang into the engine bay like a geelvink
while installing the bits and pieces.  Thanks once again.

I have a few more recipes but as my family are largely vegetarian ( in
Namibia, of all places!) I'm not sure how it will go down.  Try this one
and let me know if it turned out worth the while.



The following is a Question and answer session between me and a potential customer, by eMail. I suggest you start at the Bottom.

 Dear Andre

You have asked me for advice on how to give your Engine more Power without
loosing any anywhere in the RPM band.
I advised you to have the Heads ported.

Valve springs keep the Valves on the Seat, they only affect Power when they
are too Stiff (Kinetic Energy) or too weak (Valves will not seat- and leak).
Yes I am aware of this.  Since the exhaust valves burnt and could of
resulted from week valve springs I need to check on this before I
If you wish to search for answers I am not giving you (either by our
conversation or on the Website- there are plenty more articles now), may I
suggest you start reading some good technical Books. 
Thanks, I am looking
into this and am learning every day.
Rocker Ratio's can increase lift and off seat duration, but will put more
stress on your springs Lifters and Lobes. 
Well aware of this, hence need to
look at the right combination.
Roller rockers- High RPM (such as 4000 +) seriously not on a Boat that
cannot get over 5000 RPM ? 
I was not aware of this but thought that the
motor will run smoother.
No Red Line means it can take that Safely.  I am aware of this, but surely
putting springs in that can take 5000 rpm does not mean the motor will
suddenly run this, many other factors will still limit the rpm.

My Advice will remain: PORT YOUR HEADS !
Yes I am still keeping this in mind,
what concerns me is that the effect could only be limited due to the exhaust
system that we discussed before is made for a safe use and not for free flow
and performance.

Best Regards


> Hi Nick, sorry I will make it to you today.  I should make it tomorrow.  I
> would like to took at valve springs, Rocker Arm kits normal and roller
> (change the ratio) as well as push rods when I pop in.  This could be
> another way of increasing valve lift without changing the cam.  Putting
> springs in that can take 5800 rpm surely does not mean the motor will rev
> that?  I am having the present springs tested to see what their pressure
> rating is and what the rocker ratio is. Andre
> I have springs for you that can take 5800 Rpm  Redline.
> If the rest of your engine can take that, you must decide.
> All of our SBC's are redlined at 5800 minimum.
> I also have springs that can take 8000 Rpm- though your cam & Lifters will
> not last there.

>> Message -----
> > If I change the springs on my motor, can I get 200 rpm more? Thanks Andre
> >

> > No
> >
> > They are a band aid.
> >
> > ONLY springs can increase RPM.

> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> >
> > > Nick, can spring shims increase rpm and if so can they increase rpm?
> > Andre


Received 31/08/2001 from Kati:

was only joking about brotrezept might be better for some people if they did not know where it came from in case it flops in some ovens. was nicht dabei steht und ich dir auch nicht gesagt habe ist, dass ter teig fuer zwei (2) normale brotformen ist, also fuer zwei normale brote!!  hab das frueher uebrigens auch im flachen eisentopf mit deckel drauf auf pad in der kohle gebacken - wunderbar - dann den ganzen teig in einem pot, silberfolie drueber und deckel drauf. halbe stunde am rand der kohle gehen lassen und dann auf kohle stellen und eine schaufel gluehende kohle oben auf deckel und eine stunde backen lassen. 

Regarding the Brotrezept

Dear Mr. Oxley

Thank you for your letter. Judging by the amount of mail that I have received, Fuel percolation and similar problems seem to be the least understood. Simply said Fuel Boils at around 60 C and underhood Temperatures are nearly Always higher, so it can’t really be prevented.

First thing to check would be to utilise a "Jump-start from another car" when starting hot, if your problem is solved have your electrical system checked.

Second Test would be to drive your car for a short while with the tank cap removed (please take the Fire hazard into account), if your hot start problem is cured have your tank vent checked.

Then check your fuel pressure at the carb inlet, max. is 6 PSI and ideal is 3-5 PSI.

Also try driving shortly with your aircleaner top removed from the carb, be wary of dirt and fire though, and see if that makes a difference.

Finally have your float set at factory specs, as Volkswagen does not like to have its Carbs played with.

And finally if it was my Vehicle I would have a Weber installed on it PROFESSIONALLY if the above gave no results

Remember that on the Jetta your carb sits behind the Motor and above the Exhaust manifold, which is a Hot spot to be in ! A lot of Volkswagen have a slight hot starting problem due to this fact alone.



Dear Mr. Heiwer

Thank you very much for your letter dated 16/04/96.

Firstly, why do you want to use a Big Block, unless of course you intend Towing ?

I would just ensure a few things, get something equal to the Towing package from GM. More Information on what the vehicle is going to be used for, would be appreciated, i.e. Towing, serious Off roading ? Since there are probably a few minor thing that you don’t think of, that could become major here.

You do need a extra external tranny cooler if your vehicle is Automatic.

If the radiator has plastic tanks, get one with a higher BTU rating made from copper, since that can be repaired in Africa.

If you are not towing, maybe you should consider a performance suspension from Superlift with Doetsch Tech MV12 shocks.

Otherwise you should have no problems with a Blazer.

Jeeps Cherokees get assembled in South Africa and you might experience service problems elsewhere. Also the plastic radiator tanks tend to split loose from the radiator and cannot be repaired. Don’t forget that our dirt roads can be extremely choppy, testing mounting points to its fullest.


Dear Sir

Pertaining to our conversation of a few Days ago.

2.2 Courier 12 valve Fuel consumption problem. You quoted an approximate 5Km/L which we can improve to an easy 7.5 Km/L using Fuelinjection or a cheaper alternative which will improve performance as well by 20% is to modify your motor by fitting:

a Header freeflow system

Head and Intake Porting

Camshaft Reprofiling

Weber Carburetor with K&N Filter

                This would price at 7000 N$ and get you a 1 year/50 000Km warranty on our Workmanship.

May I provide a quick calculation here.

35 000 Km a year means 7000 Liter’s used @ N$2.00 = 14 000 N$ spent on fuel. Then we modify your vehicle and get the following: 4666.67 Liters used = 9333.34 N$ spent giving a saving of 4666.66 N$.

Effectively before you are Halfway through your Lease contract, you will start saving on Fuel.

With one of these Vehicles modified and traveling at a Legal speed, a Customer was able to obtain better Mileage’s than 10 Km/L.


Please do not hesitate to eMail your Questions in at feedback@nicksracing.com

I will Publish your Question, so that others can help you.

Maybe I will even answer it myself.


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